When Axl Rose penned 'Sweet Child o' Mine' he probably didn't imagine it being belted out 23 years later in a random bar in Kota Kinabalu to an audience of five. He probably didn't imagine the back-up dancers in dresses so short they looked like t-shirts (OK, perhaps he did) or the Malaysian accent which made the lead singer sound slightly drunk. He probably didn't imagine a five-foot Slash with a mohawk.

If he did, there were probably drugs involved � I was there (and relatively sober) and the experience was surreal. Then again, so was most of the day.

Our Malaysian adventure kicked off with a trip to Manukan Island in the Tunku Abdul Rahman Park in the South China Sea. Situated in the Borneo region of Malaysia, the islands which make up the national park are picture perfect � white sands, lush tropical foliage, and clear turquoise water. And avocado ice-creams. Yip, in a country where pretty much anything can be eaten and temperatures are hot and humid all year round, nothing is too savoury to be frozen and turned into an ice-lolly.

Snorkelling a few metres from the shore seemed like fun until we headed out to sea to do some sea-walking. Think scuba diving without the training, swimming and nifty sign language. Basically, you don what looks like a big space helmet and a pair of rubber shoes. The helmet, which is pretty damn heavy, weighs you down and traps the air. A tube connected to an oxygen tank pumps fresh air into your helmet as you climb down a ladder to the ocean floor.

And the fish. Oh, the fish. Sparkly blue and green ones, iridescent purple and pink ones, that little guy who went missing off the coast of Australia� Sure, it may have taken a few loaves of bread to lure them to our little spot in the ocean, but it beat the hell out of an aquarium.

By midday the clear skies had filled with storm clouds and on our way back to Kota Kinabalu we were pelted with hard, heavy raindrops. The cool rain and fresh salty air was a welcome relief after the stifling heat of the morning.

And the point of this little run in the rain?

This rain was nothing, however, compared to the storm which built up as we travelled two hours inland to Sungai Klias. By the time we arrived � after a somewhat precarious drive � the storm had worked itself into a frenzy. The rain was falling so heavily that after we had stumbled a few metres from the bus it had permeated our pitiful raincoats and soaked our clothes underneath. I realised, only halfway to our destination, that the metal rod in my umbrella was probably more of a liability than a means of protection in a thunderstorm of this magnitude.

And the point of this little run in the rain? A river cruise. Yip, as the rain made rivers of the roads and locals huddled under makeshift shelters, we were planning to take a boat trip through the jungle. Our determination to do so was only slightly dampened by the sight of the boat's crew bailing buckets of water from the boat.

We went on two river cruises � the first in search of the elusive Proboscis Monkey and the second, at night, in the hopes of encountering the magical fireflies. We did come across some Proboscis Monkeys, but from such a distance that it was difficult to make out their distinctive noses. The fireflies, on the other hand, were a sight to behold. Hundreds, if not thousands, turned the mangrove trees into sparkling, shimmering fairylands.

I like to think that the excitement I felt was just my inner child jumping for joy, but it could easily have been spurred on by the very real threat of crocodiles lurking a few feet from the boat. Or the unidentifiable vegetable I ate at dinner.

Come to think of it, that vegetable could also explain the Guns N' Roses impersonation. I'm pretty sure that did actually happen though�

If you find yourself in Sabah, be sure to check out:

Kinabalu Park: covering an area of 754km�, the Kinabalu Park is home to one of Malaysia's World Heritage Sites and, towering 4101 metres above sea level, the highest mountain in Southeast Asia � Mount Kinabula. If hiking isn't for you, check out the Mount Kinabalu Botanical Garden.

Monsopiad Cultural Village: this living museum pays homage to one of Borneo's indigenous tribes, the Kadazandusun, and the once-notorious practice of head-hunting. Named after a legendary head-hunter Monsopiad, who collected 42 skulls during his life, the village showcases cultural dancing, cooking, crafts, and the 'House of Skulls'.

Tunku Abdul Rahman Park: named after the first prime minister of independent Malaysia, this marine park is made up of a cluster of protected islands � Pulau Gaya, Pulau Sapi, Pulau Manukan, Pulau Mamutik and Pulau Sulug. All of the islands are only a 10 to 20 minute speedboat ride from Kota Kinabalu and offer ideal spots for snorkelling, seawalking and diving. From November to February you may be lucky enough to catch sight of whale sharks.

Klias River Proboscis Monkey Cruise: situated in the southern part of Sabah in the Mangrove Forest Reserve, the Klias River offers an opportunity to catch sight of the Proboscis Monkey. This rare primate, found only in Borneo and sometimes referred to as the 'Dutch man', is renowned for its distinctive long, flat nose. If you take a river cruise, you can expect to see macaques, silver leaf monkeys, bats and, occasionally, crocodiles. If you are fortunate, you'll also see fireflies lighting up the mangrove trees.

Sepilok Orang Utan Sactuary: If you are willing to travel a little further afield, visit the Orang Utan sanctuary set in the lush Kabili-Sepilok Forest Reserve. Established in 1964 to rehabilitate orphaned orang utans, the sanctuary re-trains the orang utans to survive on their own in the wild. At the sanctuary, you can encounter these fascinating creatures up close in their natural habitat.

Rebekah Kendal travelled to Borneo courtesy of Malaysian Airlines and Tourism Malaysia.